Journey's End

Monday October 10,2011 to Friday October 14, 2011

Santiago Chile to Vancouver BC

The journey has ended. Monday was a travel day working our way by bus and plane to Santiago Chile. Tuesday and Wednesday allowed us the opportunity to explore the city by using the double decker hop on/hop off bus and participate in one of the frequent demonstrations taking place over high post secondary tuition fees.
Departing late thursday I finally arrive home at noon on friday after being away 31 days.
Over the past month I have had the chance to meet interesting people, witness the human condition of a group of strangers (eleven individuals) coming together under the common interest of motorcycling and travel, observe the most stunning scenery on the planet, witness the joys and sufferings of indigenous locals, establish life long friendships, and break more traffic laws than one can accumulate in a lifetime. Would I do it again? In a heartbeat. Stay tuned for my next journey to South East Asia in the very near future. Until then ride safe.

                                          Our Compass Andean Discovery Group.

Jim Laurence, Surrey, BC, Canada

Silvana Rosetti, Cordoba Region, Argentina

Paul Hawgood, Bracebridge, Ontario, Canada

Hans van Deursen, no fixed address, originally from Holland

Tony Carmichael, Perth, WA, Australia

Carolyn Bath, Bunderberg, QLD, Australia

MIlton Trost Friedler, Jackson, Mississippi, USA

Andrew Heffernan, Sidney, NSW, Australia

Lincoln Rees, Newcastle, NSW, Australia

Debora Sutcliffe, Sidney, NSW, Australia

Robin Williams, Brisbane, QLD, Australia

Last Ride Day

Sunday October 9, 2011
San Martin to Pucon Chile 173 km

A sad day indeed as today is our last ride day before departing to Santiago Chile tomorrow for a few days of exploration. Our journey started at 9 am and took us back to the Argentina border and then on to the Chilean border before the road led is down through lush green farmland and woods towards the scenic town of Pucon. Sitting on the south eastern shore of of Lake Villarrica Pucon is the major destination of choice for most visitors to Chile's lake district. With a population of 8000 Pucon swells to 70,000 during the summer as people come to enjoy the walks, water sports, climb the active volcano Villaricca or just relax on the beaches. We arrived early afternoon and I spent the rest of the day shopping for more gifts. Tonight was spent sampling the local beer until the wee hours with Andrew, Tony, Margie, Silvana and Hans.

Solving problems of life 

No Hands Hans

Lets have a quick look first........yup its stuck

Four Fat Guys at the Border

Welcome to Chile

We park the bikes for the last time

Say Goodbye to the Troopy

Saturday, October 8, 2011
Bariloche to San Martin de Los Andes 420km

Our goal today was to reach Pucon Chile, however we must always expect the unexpected and today, my birthday, brought us some unplanned events. Our morning ride initially on pavement brought us to the first dirt portion of todays ride under cloudy skies and drizzle and very cold weather up through the the stunning seven lakes drive. We stopped in the town of La Angostura for a warm up coffee and to appreciate the effects of the ash covered landscape in the surrounding area caused by the recent eruption of the Puyehue Volcano in southern Chile. After a stop at a beautiful lake for lunch we headed into the town of San Martin de Los Andes for a brief pit stop. Not far from here the troopy ( support vehicle ) developed problems with a front wheel bearing and drive shaft an could no longer complete the journey. An exhaustive search for parts brought no success and it was decided to abandon the troopy and make an attempt to cross the Chilean border with our luggage following in a hired truck. After a mad dash to the border and after crossing the Argentina portion we discovered that our luggage would not arrive before the Chilean border closed. Now caught in no mans land we had to re enter Argentina and begin the 103 km journey back to San Martin with 12 km of  travel on gravel road, over wooden bridges and the balance on paved blacktop all under night sky. Needless to say, more than a few of the group were upset as there was abundant evidence of wild life, cattle and horses on or near the roads and this posed a significant hazard to all of the group during the return night drive. We all made it back to San Martin safely with the only victim being a hare run over by Andrew. After some confusion sorting out some hard to get rooms, a late night dinner was a welcome sight and a good nights rest tempered the emotions of yesterdays events.

Milt and I departing a photo stop

The troopy is broken

Goodbye Troopy

Stunning roads and scenery

We couldn't get the bikes to the top

Waiting for work crews to clear the road of ash

Our lunch stop today

My trusty steed 

Patagonia

Thursday October 6 and Friday October 7, 2011
Las Lajas to Bariloche 430km

Today we officially enter the Patagonia region of Argentina and arrive in the small city of Bariloche which is the urban centre of the Argentine Lake district. Our accommodation of chalet like cabins was a stark difference to our humble abode of yesterday and most of us were amazed at the mountain beauty and views. With a population of around 100,000 the city feels very european and stretches along the southern shore of Lago Nahuel Huapi. This area is known as one of Argentina's premiere ski resorts. After an excellent barbeque thursday evening and a good nights sleep we explored this area on friday by first taking a cable car up to Cerro Campanario. At the summit we witnessed one of the top ten views on earth according to National Geographic. Friday afternoon was spent exploring the city and having lunch with Paul, Milt and Robin, and buying gifts.

Four fat guys on a gondola

The view from one of our cabins

The view from the top of Cerro Campanario

These roadside worship areas dot most routes throughout South America

Today we crossed the steppe region of the Andes and cross the Rio Limay into  Bariloche

Our scenic stop for lunch and decent coffee

Our support vehicle also referred as "the troopy"

Tail Cases and Blackberry

Wednesday Oct 5, 2011
Malarque to Las Lajas 488 km

Leaving Malarque at 8 am we soon began a 115 km journey on loose gravel and corrugated dirt roads challenging my driving skills before rejoining blacktop for the rest of our travel day. I managed to part company with my tail bag on the dirt portion with map, blackberry and miscellaneous sundries locked inside. Fortunately Silvana following in the support vehicle retrieved it from the middle of the road. Shortly after I encountered another tail bag lying on the road and this too was collected and returned to Andrew. I've learned not to trust these bags on rough roads and now keep my essentials on my person. Our journey today took us south on Route 40 through the winding foothills of the Andes and provided us some stunning scenery. We arrived in Las Lajas late afternoon and stayed in a cramped hotel with four of our entourage staying in a residence a block away. Margie and I shared a small 2 bedroom apartment with my room located in an attic space with a small five foot high door accessed via a rickety ladder like stair. The accommodation was the only available in this area and everyone had to make a small sacrifice in this one star facility, however the evening dinner of fair dinkum pizza and some local beer shared with Debbie, Margie, Silvana, Hans and Linc made up for the minor discomfort.

Hans with the Andes in the background

Foothills of the Andes

Andrew, Hans and Paul during a rest stop

Our humble abode

Four fat guys under an eagle

Ruta 40

Monday October 3 and Tuesday October 4, 2011
Mendoza to Malarque 370 km

Monday was a quiet day spent with Robin exploring the city and searching for Ruta 40 T shirts for the four fat guys. We were without luck as no one had our sizes.
Today (tuesday)we joined the famous Ruta 40 (Route 40) which continues all the way down to the southern end of Argentina. The group broke up 100 kilometers south of Mendoza with four of the group traveling the gravel portion and seven of us including the support vehicle traveling pavement. We reconnected again for lunch some three hours later with the dirt riders taking much longer to rendezvous with the rest of us. Todays journey continued south all within site of the mighty Andes through mostly flat land with occasional hilly areas. Our stop tonight is in Malarque which is known for its proximity to ski resorts, archeological sites and fauna reserves.

The famous Ruta 40

My new found friend except I couldn't get him to wake up

Robin, Margie and Linc waiting for the rest of the dirt riders

Andrew and Debbie after lunch

Milt after completing the dirt portion of Ruta 40

Race Track

Sunday October 2, 2011
San Luis to Mendoza 300km

Before continuing our journey we had the opportunity to take the bikes out for a couple of laps on the racetrack. What a blast. We did have to be cautious however as there were a number of race support vehicles wandering about going in the opposite direction. Racing can be addictive.
Todays ride was very short and somewhat boring as we crossed the vast steppe on very straight roads into the beautiful town of Mendoza. With a population of 930,000 this bustling city has wide leafy avenues, atmospheric plaza's and excellent cafe's. Although a desert town nestled in foothills of the Andes the streets are lined with irrigation ditches keeping this city green. This afternoon was spent wandering into town (about 18 km) via taxi with Robin and Milt whilst Paul followed on his bike. As most shops were closed we ended up sitting at a cafe, people watching and enjoying the great weather.

End of the track ride

Our ride around the track was a blast

Our hotel 18 kilometers from Mendoza

Lined up like little duckies

Tony always cracking me up with his humor.

Detours and Races

Saturday October 1, 2011
Alta Gracia to San Luis 400km

Our journey today began through stunning scenery on winding mountainous roads and then down into the flats of the Cordoba region. Our arrival in San Luis was delayed due to a major car race closing the main route into this small city. Not to be deterred we found an old gravel trail over some mountainous areas which brought us back into town near our hotel. With the assistance of a friendly police escort we managed to find our hotel which is located right beside the track. Margie dropped her bike today on very loose gravel and rock and thankfully suffered no injuries. She is a very accomplished rider and notwithstanding proves that anyone can have a mishap no matter their skill set.

My good friend Paul from Bracebridge Ontario

Moon landscape

Race Day. Our hotel is located alongside the very noisy track